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Mens Fashion

Grungy Gentlemen NYFW Men’s Spring Summer 2017 Collection

Grungy Gentlemen NYFW Men’s Spring Summer 2017 Collection

Grungy Gentlemen NYFW Men’s Spring Summer 2017 Collection Maintaining the amount of people at the W New York, the onset of grunge expect Gentleman show was quite alarming. It was certainly a sense of excitement and urgency in the air, until it became clear to floating comments which had most guests probably invited based the first or second fashion show …

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Hood By Air Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Hood By Air Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (10)

Hood By Air Spring 2017 Menswear Collection Hood By Air makes things difficult. These images were shot days after its Spring 2017 show in Paris, a frenzied cruise in semi-darkness through a gay sauna in a seedy part of the Marais that culminated in a synchronized swim in the hammam’s subterranean pool (don’t think: Busby Berkeley). The clothes were glimpsed …

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Vetements Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Vetements Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (7)

Vetements Spring 2017 Menswear Collection The Gvasalia brothers, Demna, the designer, and Guram, the business brains behind the Vetements phenomenon, pulled off a coup for the fashion credibility of Paris with a show in the Galeries Lafayette tonight. On many levels, it was an event which satirically contravened half a dozen arcane regulations of what is supposed to be the …

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Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (10)

Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Menswear Collection After last menswear season’s ecstatic explosion of time and place at the Palais Garnier opera house—for which this critic totally dropped his shopping—it was surely nearly impossible for Dries Van Noten to up the impactful ante. And he didn’t. Because how could he? That was a thing never to be repeated. But that’s …

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Pigalle Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Pigalle Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (10)

Pigalle Spring 2017 Menswear Collection Two years ago, Pigalle’s Stéphane Ashpool and his best friend Paul were walking down the street—in Pigalle, presumably—when Ashpool saw Marissa Seraphin. “She’s been my girl for two years,” he said last night. “She’s been part of all the progression and creativity. She gives me all the good.” So last night Seraphin and Ashpool were …

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (10)

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Menswear Collection Parlaying with Yohji Yamamoto post-show is one of the great pleasures of the Paris menswear season. Today a reshuffled schedule, a perfect storm of traffic prompted by the UEFA Euro ’16 Football games and a demonstration (ah, the French), plus a serious chunk of distance between this show and the next precluded that possibility. …

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Junya Watanabe Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Junya Watanabe Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (10)

Junya Watanabe Spring 2017 Menswear Collection The ragtag bunch of models who make up the cast of each of Junya Watanabe’s shows are so deliberate they don’t only support the clothing physically but ideologically as well. Take Spring 2017, where swaggering and heavily inked sorts meandered menacingly toward the audience, confronting each bench of onlookers with a sneer. The small-town …

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Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (6)

Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Menswear Collection The bench of British editors seated across the soaringly beautiful marble runway at Maison Margiela were already a picture of post-Brexit misery. Yet as the first chords of Leonard Cohen’s “Last Year’s Man” were strummed over the PA, their faces fell further. This pretty quintessential Margiela menswear collection nicely fitted the mood of a …

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Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (9)

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2017 Menswear Collection Sometimes written on the garments, at others on the bodies of the men and women who wore them, the capitalized phrase I AM RED WITH LOVE declared Sébastien Meunier’s mood at this Ann Demeulemeester show today. “Rebel in love,” the designer semi-clarified backstage. “Love is a colorful emotion for me. And we can say …

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Givenchy Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Givenchy Spring 2017 Menswear Collection (11)

Givenchy Spring 2017 Menswear Collection Is Riccardo Tisci, designer of some of the most assertive, even threatening, menswear in the world, mellowing? “I’ve been in a really good place,” he allowed backstage, after a Spring 2017 Givenchy show that, while peopled with warrior-like models, hulking in combat gear, somehow sounded a note of affection rather than aggression. It was long …

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