Sunday paris fashion week 2016-17 spring collection
The two houses have become fashion week Prozac, taking imminent gloom (Why are we here? What are we doing?) and dispelling it with concepts that are at once delightful and destructive — a winning combination in 2016.
The first four looks at Balenciaga included trench coats with those signature huge shoulders and hideously compelling square-toe boots. It felt like Vetements 3.0 until just a few models later, with their dainty blouses (replete with regular-size shoulders and brooches that harked back to the original Cristobal Balenciaga) and dresses. There were cinched waists or large, floppy belts, which nicely countered the fishermen vests, puffer coats and two instances of a rain poncho that looked like a condom. The use of color was awesome; orange with blue, purple with red, and the floral prints (a carry-over from last season) confirmed that it takes longer than a single season for a designer to feel finished with a single concept.
Spring 2017 at Céline came in feeling slight and somewhat confusing, with free-flowing garments and lightweight, delicate fabrics. Is that a jacket with those pants? What is that dress made from? For how easy it all looks — and that is always the thing about Céline — it’s rather complicated.