New collection in fashion show of 2016-17
How to cover fashion month on La Petite Anglaise has posed increasingly more of a challenge for me over the past few seasons. When I attended my first ever London Fashion Week waaaay back in 2010 I had the different challenge of attending two shows – both of which I wangled into through determination, desperation, charm and having zero shame in my clueless game – and seemingly endless time. So I wrote reviews of said shows, diaries, several features on the NewGen exhibition, “interviews” with David Koma and Mary Katrantzou that I chanced off the cuff when they happened to have popped into their exhibition stands.
Perhaps a slightly surprising “personal fave pick” given that Derek Lam doesn’t play a huge role in my wardrobe in my wardrobe… Yet! In fact, I don’t think I own a single piece by him… That needs to be amended and most definitely will be for AW16. The show began with an aesthetic that I would describe as luxe austerity; crisp shirting, sharply tailored silhouettes in a strict palette of monochrome and neutrals with sparsely applies collar ruffles for an appropriately measured dose of Victoriana juxtaposed with abstract line pattern detailing. It was just as I was starting to think “I appreciate how great this is but largely, not my cup of tea” that a rich forest green fur strutted out and changed the game. Derek Lam did not deliver a one theme collection based around contemporary Victoriana. Oh hell no. The polished, slightly severe elegance remained but Lam pushed this aesthetic to inject it’s timeless poise to patchwork furs, electric check prints, fuchsia (if this is “the colour of the season” then YES!) velvet and top to toe sequins.