Couture Week High Jewelry Designs Collection 2016-2017
There were as many high and fine jewelry presentations as couture shows this week in Paris. Nature ran riot in wheat and flower themes dominated by yellow gems, with sea greens running a close second—and not always in the stones one might expect.
The house’s renowned four-petal flower was the springboard for the Blossom collection; a 43.05-carat aqua green beryl (related to the emerald) becomes a petal on a diamond and chalcedony pendant.
The London-based jewelry house showed a collection inspired by its native city—here, the Thames Path necklace—and made a dazzling case for 10-plus carat white diamond solitaires from the lower range of the alphabet.
A master of the “camouflage-big” piece, Gaia Repossi offered up a new twist on diamond earrings, and a newly redesigned Place Vendôme flagship by Rem Koolhaas and OMA.
Mellerio dits Meller
Artistic director Laure-Isabelle Mellerio is a member of the Mellerio family’s 14th generation and the first woman to helm the house. Appointed last year, she started out in interior design before earning degrees in art history and, most recently, gemology. The Cape Cod ring in onyx with deep fancy yellow diamonds gives an idea of where she’s headed.
For the Diva’s Dream Necklace, executive director and gem-buyer Lucia Silvestri convinced a gem-cutter to whittle a 48-carat oval sapphire to a 45-carat cushion cut. The result was the standout of the house’s fashion show–cum–garden party. Meanwhile, while the house’s latest take on the Serpenti—in pendant form—took home the National Jewelry Institute award.