Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2017 Menswear Collection
Sometimes written on the garments, at others on the bodies of the men and women who wore them, the capitalized phrase I AM RED WITH LOVE declared Sébastien Meunier’s mood at this Ann Demeulemeester show today.
“Rebel in love,” the designer semi-clarified backstage. “Love is a colorful emotion for me. And we can say also I am black with love. But we blush and we become a bit red when we are in love, so there is all of that. I wanted to give something that was a bit shy—emotion, charming emotion.” There was certainly a torn romance to this monochrome-dominated—but red-flashed—collection. Ribbons and chainlets of beads tipped with dyed red feathers hung from loose, soft asymmetrical outfits. The broad wide and ruffled arm shape on a silk shirt was revived as a stand-alone sleeve later in the show.
White silk standards printed with a bird or disassembled abstracts—and possibly at one point a photograph of a dog—were draped around bodies like flags to signify deep meaningfulness. There were some attractive multi-fabric patterned military jackets in a burgundy-touched red.