Dior Homme Spring 2017 Menswear Collection
Kris Van Assche, the rigorous Belgian who designs Dior Homme, erected a funfair at the center of the label’s Spring 2017 show. Why not? “It’s the Sinksenfoor,” said he, referencing an Antwerp institution. “When I was a kid in Antwerp, we used to love going to the funfair, all these new wave kids, these punk kids.”
But really, that funfair was a giant neon red-herring. Van Assche wasn’t about to clown it out, but rather used the flashing lights and helter-skeltering metal as a backdrop to a collection that was physically dark, if not metaphorically. It was all about the contrast. Contrast is important to Van Assche. He rarely plays any inspiration straight and direct. Unearthing them all can feel like taking a turn on a topsy-turvy rollercoaster. This time, Van Assche oscillated between the aforementioned Punk and New Wave with sports elements which, he feels, are representative of today. There were also the tailored suits that Dior Homme originally built its menswear business on, and which are still demanded by plenty of clients.
Those references were blended together, sometimes simultaneously into a single outfit. “A synthesis is more interesting than copying,” said Van Assche, by way of explanation.