Maison Rabih Kayrouz Resort 2017 Runway Collection
Like entering an art gallery and feeling an overpowering urge towards a single work, there was no way to ignore the near-neon garments against one wall of Rabih Kayrouz’s airy atelier. As he started explaining the Resort collection, their oomph became inversely proportional to the prosaic words he had handwritten (clothes, uniform, work, function, etc.) that compelled these latest designs.
To be fair, this grouping represented just one aspect of a range that, as he further explained, was dedicated to the same charismatic women who have always inspired him. Yet, somehow, he still managed to close the gap between these two extremes, creating a collection that projected purpose and poise. He did this in small ways and large. Regarding the former, he cut out panels at the forearms of a crisp white shirtdress, whether as a window to a woman’s tattoos or direct access to the fragrance she dabs on her skin, the motive came from a place of understanding. So too did the patch pockets expanded with grosgrain, which he said gave extra encouragement to inhabit a tunic or coat with attitude.
“Habit” happened to be among his foundation words, and as he showed off a khaki coat with a belt running higher from back to front, the sense was of stature, rather than a direct link to liturgical dress.